I’ve written about Tasmanian locals (legends) and the scenery (mainland Australia on an acid trip) but haven’t yet touched on the island’s most striking feature – mutant wildlife.
Mutant in it’s sheer ubiquity. Everywhere wallabies, wombats, technicolor birdlife, sea creatures. Unfortunately, the simplest way to spot many of these critters is by looking in the gutter by the side of the road. A zoo of haemorrhaging marsupials; go on kids, touch ’em, they (no longer) bite.
The ones that are still living tend to be a little more precocious. Equally as tame.
Sam tells the baby wallaby to ‘smell my finger’.
After the first day of camping one becomes more cynical as to the perceived charms of furry fauna. Whether deliberate or accidental, the food that these animals wrangle from campers is enough to render them tame & conniving. (Hapless folk like us who leave their staples unattended for two shakes of a rabid possum’s tail perpetuate this problem).
Journal entry for 7.5.14.
Drive to Fortescue Bay. Arrive just in time to negotiate our new hunk of off-road technology before night falls.
Sam makes a fire. His life purpose is pyrotechnic. Scrounge for kindling around the campsite. Slim pickings. Still, we’ve a glowing pit in no time, and serenade it accordingly. The wallabies and possums are viciously, opportunistically tame. Can’t leave a morsel alone for one second. The currawongs eye us with human intelligence. They’ve got swagger and murderous beaks.
Next morning we awake to the full spectacle of the location. Wide, glistening bay fringed by forest.
Tackle Cape Huay. A 4-hour bushwalk leading out to a magnificent coastal cape. Millions of stairs, million dollar views and maximum vertigo. Feels like we’re scaling mountains – precipitous lookouts leave little room for clumsiness. The ocean is a bath and we stop regularly to let the impact of the view thwack us. (And because our butts are cramping).
That night: firewood acquisition success. Raging mini bonfire. More guitar. A possum breaks into our outdoor kitchen and samples everything he encounters. Our staples are pillaged. Potatoes, onion, garlic, swede – all nibbled beyond salvation. WHO THE HELL SULLIES EACH AND EVERY ROOT VEGETABLE THEY ENCOUNTER WITH A SINGLE DAINTY BITE? Ima find you Possum, and whomp on yo ass.
A few days later, the tension escalates; a hostage situation. I send out an urgent SOS via social media:
This may be my last ever update. We’re surrounded by wallabies. They’ve taken hold of the campsite and are patrolling the perimeter with echidna-spike bayonets. Wombats are burrowing under the camper as we speak to bomb their way to food, and there’s a shifty looking possum lurking near the dunny. Send help & decoy steaks.
And they were never seen again.
The relationship deteriorates further.
Journal entry from 14.5.14:
Dear Diaryyyyyyy,
Today we bought a takeaway piece of Gluten Free Coconut cake from a trendy vegan café in Launceston; a hulking wedge. All the way home it sits at our feet in its plastic coffin, ferried in reverence. As we make camp in the afternoon, we resist demolishing it with a cuppa. Delaying gratification. After dinner, after dinner. So stoic, so steely.
Between meals we walk in the dark to the sand flats, illuminated by a full moon. The estuary’s silver, the water birds, inky. We see a fireball burning across the sky (for the second night in a row). We dub it ‘The Ball Baker’. The first was ‘The Red Helen’. It’s eerily apocalyptic, like we’re the only two humans on Mars. Silence, serenity, contemplation and then – a rustle, a clank. The direction of our van. We look at each other – wide eyed, simultaneous recognition. Leg it back to the camp, hollering and wailing with sick clairvoyance. We know that sound. We know that fucking sound.
The scene: a possum in the cake. Caught in the act, one paw raised in punctuated gluttony. Our cake, our joy. Sealed & hidden amongst the cookware. Left like a child in a car seat. Just for a moment. She’ll be fine while we’re gone, just for one moment.
Hurl abuse and fists at the possum that shows less concern than natural for a wild animal. The cake has been exhumed, lying bereft on the benchtop. Seemingly unscathed, naked & scared. A pattern of muddy paw prints, in on & around the container. Do we risk it? Do we trust google when it warns possums carry an alphabet of parasites? Do we dare contemplate inter-species transmission of the bubonic plague? Yes. For the love of all that is comforting and sugary, yes. The cake must be et.
We scrape it of marsupial traces and pan-fry in coconut oil to sterilise. We delicately halve the battered triangle and eat it meditatively by the fire Sam’s made, with tea spoons and chamomile. No possum’s gonna fuck with our treat.
Yes, I’m painting a grim picture of Tasmanian wildlife. (But it’s mainly for the purpose of getting a giggle. I wouldn’t actually chase down a possum with a big stick and enact corporal punishment. But Sam might.)
Perhaps we gave off a certain tourist pheremone, because even tiny invertebrates joined in tormenting us.
Journal entry for 17.5.14: Cradle Mountain
Alpine beauty, clean & soft. Little tufts of grass & moss cushions. Hash together a plastic bag picnic and guide the obese Amarok to Dove Lake. Eat lunch on our laps overlooking the lake. Take a walk up glacier rock; the wind moves in liquorice strips over the water. It’s icy, my eyes leak & crystallize. The mountain comb is shrouded in low-slung mist, but the surrounds are spectacular. Beech trees are in full autumn get-up, splashed rusty orange across the slopes. Everything else, a palette of green. The water, treacle. Stained from the tannins of leaves.
Do the Enchanted Walk back at Pepper’s Lodge. Totes enchanted. Myrtle rainforest and a friendly stream. We gambol. Find a hollowed out tree trunk to stand inside. Feel small.
Back on the road in the car, not far out, a horror scene. A waving leech on my trouser, swaying, drunk on the scent of blood. My nemesis & childhood foe. Irrational aversion to their slimy, wormy, silent parasitism. Baulk and compose myself. Try to fling it out the window. It sticks on the outside. Sam is alarmed. We’re both quietly shitting ourselves. Without unnecessary fuss, I spy and remove another from Sam’s groin (a masculine nightmare). Pull over and proceed with anti-Leech measures. There is another little bastard oscillating wildly on Sam’s seatbelt. Skin is crawling. We practically strip & check each other over by the side of the road. There are 1000 imaginary leeches in our ears, hair, armpits, undies. We grow up and drive on. I intermittently convulse for the next hour.
DOES ANYONE ELSE REVERT TO OLD-BRAIN FIGHT OR FLIGHT WHEN FACED WITH A MINUTE BLACK BLOOD-SUCKING WORM? WHAT IS IT THAT MAKES THEM SO REPULSIVE? Answer me that, Dr. Karl.
I’ll say something positive now to restore the balance, for these are isolated (harrowing) incidents on an otherwise BRILLIANT road trip around a supernaturally excellent island.
Many Tasmanian critters are so obliging that they’ll latch onto anything you dare to dangle into the water and offer themselves to the frypan gods.
Under a luminous unbroken rainbow no less.
And so it was that our road trip was punctuated by hilarious, precarious encounters with mutant Tassie wildlife. Anyone else ever been ambushed by furry cake fiends?